How Patterns Work Table of Contents

How Patterns Work

This is the full table of contents for our book
How Patterns Work

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Table of Contents

About Assembil

Introduction

Introduction to Pattern Making Processes and Terminology

The first half of How Pattern Work introduces those who are new to pattern making to the basic concepts involved and walks you through all of the basic terminology.

Chapter 1
The Basics

Basic Garment Lifecycle
What Are Patterns?
Patterns Make Design Ideas Repeatable
The Relationship Between Patterns and Fabric
Pattern Measurements vs. Garment Measurements
First Attempts

Chapter 2
Professional Systems
From Design Sketch to Finished Sample

Repeating and Refining
What Is a Toile or Muslin?
Choosing Toile Fabric
Using Toiles in Stages
Fitting the Toile
Testing Construction Finishes
Using Toiles and Construction Tests in Your Own Projects
What Is a Sample Garment?
From Design Sketch to Sample Garment

Chapter 3
Communicating Design Ideas

Clarifying the Concept
Mood Boards
Fabric Boards
Music
Avoiding Distracting Elements
Design Sketches
Technical Drawings

Chapter 4
Key Body Guidelines

Body Measurements
Dress Forms and Mannequins
Bust, Waist, Hips
Centre Front, Centre Back and Side Seams
Bust Point and Other Guidelines
Purpose of Key Guidelines
Naming Conventions of Guidelines
Marking Guidelines on a Mannequin
Guidelines and Body Measurements
Mannequins vs. Human Bodies

Chapter 5
Understanding Darts

What Is a Dart?
An Exercise in Making a Dart in Paper
Dart Terminology

Chapter 6
Darts and the Body
Skirt and Bodice Exercises

Using Quick Exercises in Pattern Making
Paper Skirt Exercise
Paper Bodice Exercise
Using Darts to Read Patterns
Fitting Darts vs. Decorative Darts

Chapter 7
Basic Blocks

What Is a Block?
Ease on Block Measurements
Making Your Own Set of Blocks
Diagrams of Basic Blocks
Different Methods for Creating Blocks

Chapter 8
Truing, Blending and Flow Through

Truing and Blending
Truing a Seam with a Dart
Flow Through
Checking that a Block or Pattern will Mirror Correctly
The Difference Between Checking Blocks and Patterns

Chapter 9
Blocks and Patterns

The Different Uses of Blocks and Patterns
The Difference Between Blocks and Patterns
Dart Point Position for Bust Darts
Seam Allowances on Blocks and Patterns

Chapter 10
Seams and Seam Allowance

What Is a Seam?
Stitching Lines on Basic Blocks
What Is Seam Allowance?
Understanding How Much Seam Allowance to Add
What Is a Seam Finish?
Guideline Seam Allowances
Seam Allowance Consistency
Using a Half Body Block to Make a Pattern
Cutting “On the Fold”

Chapter 11
The Importance of Accuracy

Seam Allowance and Body Measurements
How Small Errors Cause Fit Problems

Chapter 12
Marking Seam Allowance and Notches

What Is a Notch?
Extending Notches Out From the Stitching Line
Grading Rulers
Extending Notches Out From Mid Seam Points
Marking in Seam Allowance Accurately
French Curves and Curved Rulers
Squaring Off Seam Allowance
When to Leave Seam Allowances at an Angle
Shaping Dart Value
Direction of Dart Values

Chapter 13
Notches and Drillholes

Marking Notches onto a Pattern
Marking Notches onto Fabric
Sewing with Notches on a Straight Seam
Sewing with Notches on a Curved Seam
When to Use Angled Notches
Drill Holes
Measurement Values for Drill Holes
Marking Drill Holes onto a Pattern
Marking Drill Holes onto Fabric

Chapter 14
The Anatomy of a Pattern

Overview of a Basic Pattern
Testing the Block Shape
Working with Less Detailed Patterns
Preparing the Pattern for the Cutter

Chapter 15
Grain Lines

What Is a Grain Line?
The Straight Grain
The Cross Grain
Choosing Between Straight Grain or Cross Grain
Cutting on the Bias
Choosing to Use the Bias Grain
Grain Lines for Stretch Fabrics
Working with Grain Lines
The Directions of Grain Lines
How to Decide on the Direction of the Grain Line

Chapter 16
Pattern Information and Cut Instructions

Overview of Key Points
Style Names and Numbers
Garment Type, Piece Name and Side of the Body
Pattern Size
Numbering Pattern Pieces
Date of the Pattern
Company Name
Toile or Sample that the Pattern Relates to
Type of Fabric
Fusing vs. Block Fusing
Naming Fusing Pattern Pieces
Right Side of the Pattern
Cutting Instructions

Chapter 17
Basic Aims of Pattern Making

Basic Aims Overview
Moving Pattern Volume
Increasing Pattern Volume
Decreasing Pattern Volume
Achieving Basic Aims Through Flat Pattern Making and Drape

Chapter 18
Pattern Making Methods

Flat Pattern Making
Flat Pattern Making: Cut and Spread Method
Flat Pattern Making: Pivot Method
Drape Method
Flat Pattern Making vs. Draping

Chapter 19
Pattern Alterations and Seam Allowance

Seamless Blocks and Working Patterns
Seam Allowance in Alterations
Tracing Wheel

Pattern Making Exercises

The second half of How Pattern Work breaks complex pattern changes down into just a few basic pattern making processes. Once you understand these different options, you can endlessly repeat and mix and match these processes in your own pattern making to create and alter patterns.

Chapter 20
Introduction to Pattern Examples

About the Pattern Making Examples
Key to Pattern Markings

Chapter 21
Adding a Seam Line
Cut and Spread Method

Adding a Seam Line Overview
Adding a Seam Line: Cut and Spread Method
Checking the Transfer of Fit Value

Chapter 22
Adding a Seam Line
Pivot Method

Chapter 23
Adding a Seam Line
Drape Example

Draping Seam Lines
Original Pattern: One Single Pattern Piece
Finished Pattern: Two Separate Pattern Pieces

Chapter 24
Removing a Seam Line
Cut and Spread Method

Removing a Straight Seam Line Overview
Removing a Seam Line: Cut and Spread Method
Checking the Transfer of Fit Value

Chapter 25
Removing a Seam Line
Pivot Method

Chapter 26
Removing a Seam Line
Drape Example

Original Pattern: Two Separate Pattern Pieces
Finished Pattern: One Single Pattern Piece

Chapter 27
Moving Dart Value
Cut and Spread Method

Moving Dart Value Overview
Moving Dart Value: Cut and Spread Method
Closing a Dart from the Dart Point

Chapter 28
Moving Dart Value
Pivot Method

Chapter 29
Moving Dart Value
Drape Example

Chapter 30
Darts into Seam Lines
Cut and Spread Method

Darts into Seam Lines Overview
Dart into Seam Lines: Cut and Spread Method
Checking the Transfer of Fit Value

Chapter 31
Darts into Seam Lines
Pivot Method

Chapter 32
Darts into Seam Lines
Drape Example

Draping Darts and Seams
Original Pattern: Shaping with Darts
Finished Pattern: Shaping with a Seam Line

Chapter 33
Seam Lines into Darts
Cut and Spread Method

Reversing a Pattern Making Method
Fit Value in Darts and Seams
Seam Lines into Darts Overview
Seam Lines into Darts: Cut and Spread Method
Matching at the Stitching Line
Variations of Seam Lines into Darts

Chapter 34
Seam Lines into Darts
Pivot Method

Chapter 35
Increasing and Decreasing Volume

Chapter 36
Even Increase of Volume
Cut and Spread Method

Even Increase of Volume: Cut and Spread Method
Increasing Volume for Tucks, Pleats and Gathers

Chapter 37
Even Increase of Volume
Pivot Method

Chapter 38
Even Increase of Volume
Drape Example

Even Increase of Volume on the Mannequin
Drape of Original Pattern
Drape of Finished Pattern with Increased Volume

Chapter 39
Even Decrease of Volume
Cut and Spread Method

Even Decrease of Volume: Cut and Spread Method
Decreasing Volume

Chapter 40
Even Decrease of Volume
Pivot Method

Chapter 41
Even Decrease of Volume
Drape Example

Even Decrease of Volume on the Mannequin
Drape of Original Pattern
Drape of Finished Pattern with Decreased Volume

Chapter 42
Increase Volume Around a Point
Cut and Spread Method

Increase Volume Around a Point Overview
Increase Volume Around a Point: Cut and Spread Method

Chapter 43
Increase Volume Around a Point
Pivot Method

Chapter 44
Increase Volume Around a Point
Drape Example

Volume Increase Around a Point on the Mannequin
Drape of Original Pattern
Drape of Finished Pattern with Increased Volume

Chapter 45
Decrease Volume Around a Point
Cut and Spread Method

Decrease Volume Around a Point Overview
Decrease Volume Around a Point: Cut and Spread Method

Chapter 46
Decrease Volume Around a Point
Pivot Method

Chapter 47
Decrease Volume Around a Point
Drape Example

Volume Decrease Around a Point on the Mannequin
Drape of Original Pattern
Drape of Finished Pattern with Decreased Volume

Chapter 48
Volume Increase with Darts
Cut and Spread Method

Volume Around a Point
Volume Increase with Darts: Cut and Spread Method

Chapter 49
Volume Increase with Darts
Pivot Method

Chapter 50
Volume Increase with Darts
Drape Example

Volume Increase with Darts on the Mannequin
Drape of Original Pattern
Drape of Finished Pattern with Increased Volume

Chapter 51
Ease and Fabric Roll

What Is Ease?
Ease Within a Seam Line
The Amount of Ease
Uses of Ease
What Is Fabric Roll?
The Amount of Fabric Roll
Uses of Fabric Roll

Chapter 52
Applying Pattern Principles
to Complex Changes

Pattern Making Principles
Basic Steps of Cut and Spread Method
Basic Steps of Pivot Method
Complex Flat Pattern Making
Testing and Experimenting

Contact Assembil

This is the full table of contents for our book
How Patterns Work

About The BookBUY THE BOOKDOWNLOAD PDF OF TOC