About Assembil

Introduction (Sample Excerpt)

Different Ways to Learn
How To Use This Book
Key Methods and Details for Professional Results
The How and Why of Sewing

Chapter 1
An Introduction to Sewing Clothing

The Basic Process
Design, Pattern, Cut and Sew

Chapter 2
The Basic Process of Hand Sewing

What Is Sewing?
The Anatomy of a Needle
The Basic Process of Hand Sewing
What Is a Stitch?
What Are Stitching Lines?
Elements of Neat Stitching
Correct Fabric / Thread / Needle Combination
Correct Support for the Fabric
Securing the Thread in the Fabric
Trimming the Excess Thread
What Is Tension?

Chapter 3 : Equipment and Materials List
Hand Sewing

Buying Sewing Equipment
Buying Fabric
Fabric Swatches
Remnants
Basic Fabric
Thread
Needle Threader
Small Sewing Scissors or Thread Snips
Fabric Shears
When to Buy New Shears
Pins

Chapter 4
Basic Hand Sewing Exercises

Exercise 4.01 : Hand Sewing Preparation
Exercise 4.02 : Basting (with Large Backstitches)
Exercise 4.03 : Running Stitch (with Thread Knots)

Chapter 5
Seams and Seam Allowance

Joining Fabric to Make Garments
What Is a Seam?
What Is Seam Allowance (SA)?
What Is a Seam Finish?
How Much Space is Provided as Seam Allowance?
Concentrate on Stitching Line
Seam Allowance Value

Chapter 6 : Equipment and Materials List
Measure, Mark and Press

Tape Measure
Ruler
Tailor’s Chalk
Chalk Pencils
Iron and Ironing Board

Chapter 7
Hand Sewing a Seam

Exercise 7.01 : Sewing Preparation with Chalk and Pins
Exercise 7.02 : Backstitch (with Small Backstitches)
Exercise 7.03 : Basic Seam Pressing

Chapter 8
How a Sewing Machine Works

Upper Thread and Bobbin Thread
How a Stitch Is Formed
Take-Up Arm
Thread Guides and Tension Controls
Feed Dog
Presser Foot
The Stitch Cycle

Chapter 9
Choosing a Sewing Machine

Some Points to Consider Before You Buy
Different Types of Machines for Different Types of Sewers
Basic Overview of Domestic and Industrial Sewing Machines
Domestic Sewing Machines
Industrial Sewing Machines
What If You Already Have a Sewing Machine?

Chapter 10
Overview of a Domestic Sewing Machine

Domestic Sewing Machine Features
Buying a Domestic Sewing Machine
Explanation of Essential Features
Explanation of Additional Features

Chapter 11
Overview of an Industrial Sewing Machine

Industrial Sewing Machine Features
Buying an Industrial Sewing Machine
Explanation of Essential Features
Explanation of Additional Features
Explanation of Options on Industrial Machines

Chapter 12 : Equipment and Materials List
Sewing Machine Accessories

Manual and Accessories
Bobbins
Bobbin Case
The Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle
Basic Sewing Machine Needles
Basic Presser Feet
Presser Foot Types and Shank Heights
Unpicker

Chapter 13
Start Sewing on a Sewing Machine

Exercise 13.01 : Setting Up Your Sewing Area
Exercise 13.02 : Setting Up Your Sewing Machine
Exercise 13.03 : Threading a Sewing Machine
Exercise 13.04 : Sewing on a Sewing Machine
Exercise 13.05 : Basic Sewing Machine Practice

Chapter 14
Basic Sewing Machine Troubleshooting

Problems and Symptoms
Troubleshooting Guide for Sewing Machines
and Stitch Quality
Exercise 14.01 : Adjusting Thread Tension
and Presser Foot Pressure (Sample Exercise)
Exercise 14.02 : Sewing Machine Maintenance

Chapter 15
Sewing Machine Control

Sewing Seam Allowance Accurately
Exercise 15.01 : Basic Sewing Machine Control
Exercise 15.02 : Basic Straight Seam
Exercise 15.03 : Basic Corner Seams
Exercise 15.04 : Basic Curved Seams
Exercise 15.05 : Pressing Bagged Out Edges
Seams, Panel Lines and Bagged Out Edges
Exercise 15.06 : Fixing Mistakes and Unpicking Stitches

Chapter 16
Working With Fabric

Learning About Fabrics and Fabric Terminology
Decoding Fabric Names

Chapter 17 : Equipment and Materials List
Choosing Needles and Thread to Match Fabric

Buying and Experimenting With New Fabrics
Using the Thread and Needle Table
Choosing and Testing Needles and Thread

Chapter 18
Understanding Patterns

What Are Patterns?
What Are Pattern Markings?
What Are Darts?
Basic Pattern Shapes
How Are Patterns Made?

Chapter 19 : Equipment and Materials List
Pattern Making

Pencil, Pens and Eraser
Grid Ruler
Pattern Paper
Paper Shears or Scissors
Tracing Wheel
Protective Mat
Pattern Notcher
Awl

Chapter 20
Tracing Patterns

Exercise 20.01 : Tracing Patterns From This Book
Exercise 20.02 : Turn Half-Size Pieces Into Full-Size Patterns

Chapter 21
Preparation for Cutting Out

Prepare Your Fabric and Pattern
Understanding Cutting Instructions
Laying Out Fabric
Laying Out Pattern Pieces
Understanding Grain Lines
Cutting Out

Chapter 22 : Equipment and Materials List
Cutting Out

Rotary Cutter and Protective Mat
Metal Ruler
Pattern Card
Pattern Weights

Chapter 23
Cut and Sew Different Fabrics

Exercise 23.01 : Cutting Out Method 1
(Chalk Marks and Fabric Shears)
Exercise 23.02 : Cutting Out Method 2
(Paper Marker and Rotary Cutter)
Exercise 23.03 : Sewing Test Seams on Different Fabrics
Testing Samples and Making a Reference Folder
Compare Seam Samples

Chapter 24 : Principle 1
Shaping with Patterns

Pattern Shaping Details :
Darts, Seams, Gathers, Pleats and Tucks
Subtle Pattern Shaping : Ease and Roll
Pattern Shaping Across Multiple Fabric Layers

Chapter 25 : Principle 2
Shaping with Seam Allowance and Dart Value

Shaping with Seam Allowance
Shaping with Dart Value

Chapter 26 : Principle 3
Shaping and Controlling Fabric with Stitching

Shaping with Stitching : Topstitch, Edgestitch, Understitch, Ease and Gather
Stitching as a General Construction Method
When Stitching Causes Problems

Chapter 27 : Principle 4
Advanced Pressing Techniques

When To Press While Sewing
Using Heat, Pressure and Moisture
Pressing Aids, Templates and Pressing Cloths
Advanced Pressing Effects:
Flatten, Curve, Stretch and Shrink

Chapter 28 : Principle 5
Understanding Bulk and Tension

Techniques for Reducing Bulk and Tension
Points to Remember
Sometimes Bulk or Tension is Good
Other Ways to Reduce Bulk

Chapter 29 : Principle 6
Strengthening and Stabilising

Our Expectations on Fabric
Why You Can’t Skip Steps for Stabilising or Strengthening Your Fabric
Enhance or Change the Fabric Qualities
Preserve the Shape of the Fabric
Basic Techniques for Strengthening and Stabilising
Other Forms of Internal Structure
Consider How Garment Details Support or Strengthen
Methods and Materials for Temporary Support

Chapter 30 : Principle 7
Building and Preserving Garment Shape

Before, During and After Sewing
Shaping by Hand While Pinning and Basting
Increased Control with Hand Sewing
Shaping and Easing on the Sewing Machine
Directional Sewing
Good Habits for Accurate Sewing
Designing and Finishing
the Garment for Longevity

Chapter 31
Troubleshooting Guide for Construction Issues

Overview of Details and Techniques
What Do You Need to Make the Sewing Samples?

Chapter 32
Basic Garment Shape Seams, Panels and Darts

Notes 32.00 : Image Key

Chapter 32 : Equipment and Materials List
Pressing Aids

Pressing Cloths
Sleeve Board
Pressing Ham
Sleeve Roll
Point Presser / Clapper
Pressing Guides and Templates

Exercise 32.01 : Straight Panel Lines
Exercise 32.02 : Curved Panel Lines
Exercise 32.03 : Basic Shaping with a Dart
Exercise 32.04 : Basic Shaping with Seams
Exercise 32.05 : Ease on Straight Seams
Exercise 32.06 : Stitch Options for Seams and Darts

Chapter 33
Basic Machine Stitching :
Holding, Marking, Shaping and Reinforcing Fabric

Exercise 33.01 : Staystitching
Exercise 33.02 : Machine Basting
Exercise 33.03 : Gathering
Exercise 33.04 : Topstitching and Edgestitching

Chapter 34 : Equipment and Materials List
Internal Structure

General Notes About Buying Interfacing
Manufacturer Information and Common Terms
Fusible Interfacing or Fusing
Sew-in Interfacing
Fusible Tape
Stay Tape

Exercise 34.01 : Apply, Test and Compare
Different Types of Fusing

Cutting Out Fusing and Interfacing:
Grain Lines and RSU
Exercise 34.02 : Block Fusing
Exercise 34.03 : Piece Fusing
Exercise 34.04 : Piece Fusing to Avoid Seams
Exercise 34.05 : Fusing Tape on Seams
Exercise 34.06 : Stay Tape on Seams

Chapter 35
Seam Finishes

Chapter 35 : Equipment and Materials List
Seam Finishes, Edge Finishes and Hems

Pinking Shears
Sewing Gauge
Pre-Folded Bias Binding
Folded Bias Binding Widths
Bias Maker
Presser Feet for Overcasting and Blind Hems
Twin Needle

Exercise 35.01 : Basic Seam Finishes
Exercise 35.02 : French Seams
Exercise 35.03 : Flat Felled Seams
Exercise 35.04 : Lapped Seams
Exercise 35.05 : Bound Seams (Closed Seams)
Exercise 35.06 : Bound Seams (Open Seams)
Exercise 35.07 : Bound Seams (Hong Kong Finish)
Exercise 35.08 : Make Your Own Binding
Exercise 35.09 : Insert Trim into a Seam

Chapter 36
Overlocking and Overcasting

Chapter 36 : Equipment and Materials List
Overlocker and Accessories

Overlocker Features
Optional Features, Industrial Overlockers and Specialty Machines
Explanation of Essential Features
Overlocker Manual and Included Accessories
Buying Needles, Presser Feet and Accessories for Overlockers
Overlocking Thread
Coloured Thread for Tension Exercises

Exercise 36.01 : Threading an Overlocker
Exercise 36.02 : Start Sewing on an Overlocker
Exercise 36.03 : Adjusting Overlocker Thread Tension
Exercise 36.04 : Adjusting Bite Width and Differential Feed
Exercise 36.05 : Overlocking as a Seam Finish
Exercise 36.06 : Overlocking to Sew a Seam
Exercise 36.07 : Finishing Off Overlocking
Exercise 36.08 : Overlocking Edges, Corners and Curves
Exercise 36.09 : Overlocking and Overcasting on a Domestic Sewing Machine
Exercise 36.10 : Overcasting by Hand Sewing

Chapter 37
Edge Finishes and Hems

Exercise 37.01 : Basic Edge Finishes
Notes 37.02 : Preparation for Edge Finishes and Hems
Exercise 37.03 : Turn and Turn Hems (Straight)
Exercise 37.04 : Turn and Turn Hems (Curved)
Exercise 37.05 : Turn and Turn Hems (Corners)
Exercise 37.06 : Single Turn Hem (Straight)
Exercise 37.07 : Single Turn Hem (Curved)
Notes 37.08 : Alternatives for Shaped Hems and Edges
Exercise 37.09 : Narrow Hems
Exercise 37.10 : Blind Hem on a Domestic Machine
Exercise 37.11 : Blind Hem by Hand Sewing (Hem Stitch)
Exercise 37.12 : Blind Hem by Hand Sewing (Catchstitch)
Exercise 37.13 : Mitred Corners (Single Turn Hems)
Exercise 37.14 : Mitred Corners (Turn and Turn Hems)
Exercise 37.15 : Options for Knit Hems
Exercise 37.16 : Bound Hems and Edges
Exercise 37.17 : Bound Edges (Curved)
Exercise 37.18 : Bound Edges (Corners)
Exercise 37.19 : Bar Tacks

Chapter 38
Inside the Garment
Linings and Facings

Notes 38.00 : Different Uses of Linings and Facings

Chapter 38 : Equipment and Materials List
Lining, Pocketing and Grosgrain

Lining
Pocketing
Grosgrain

Exercise 38.01 : Loose Linings
Exercise 38.02 : Understitching
Exercise 38.03 : Facings
Exercise 38.04 : Facings with Lining
Exercise 38.05 : Using Trim as a Mini Facing

Chapter 39
Bagged Out Edges

Chapter 39 : Equipment and Materials List
Turning and Shaping

Loop Turner
Point Turner
Bodkins
Safety Pins
Thick Thread
Cord
Elastic

Notes 39.01 : Preparation for Bagged Out Edges
Exercise 39.02 : Bag Out a Large Curve (Topstitch)
Exercise 39.03 : Bag Out a Large Curve (Roll and Understitch)
Exercise 39.04 : Bag Out a Small Curve (Edgestitch)
Exercise 39.05 : Bag Out a Small Curve (Roll and Understitch)
Exercise 39.06 : Turning Corners Through with Thread
Exercise 39.07 : Bag Out Corners (Topstitch)
Exercise 39.08 : Bag Out Corners (Shaped Fusing)
Exercise 39.09 : Bag Out Tubes (Straps)
Exercise 39.10 : Bag Out Tubes (Belt Loops)
Exercise 39.11 : Bag Out Tubes (Belts)
Exercise 39.12 : Bag Out Tubes (Corded Rouleaux)
Exercise 39.13 : Bag Out Tubes (Rouleaux)
Exercise 39.14 : Bag Out a Point (Topstitch)
Exercise 39.15 : Bag Out a Point (Understitch)
Exercise 39.16 : Bag Out a Point (Roll)
Exercise 39.17 : Insert Trim into a Bagged Out Edge
Notes 39.18 : Marking Inside Shapes
Exercise 39.19 : Bag Out Inside Shapes (Squares and Rectangles)
Exercise 39.20 : Bag Out Inside Shapes (Circles and Ovals)
Exercise 39.21 : Bag Out a V-Shape

Chapter 40
Bagged Out Shapes and Garments

Exercise 40.01 : Bag Out Panel Lines
Exercise 40.02 : Bag Out Through a Lining Seam Method 1
Exercise 40.03 : Slipstitch
Exercise 40.04 : Draw Stitch
Exercise 40.05 : Bag Out Through a Lining Seam Method 2
Exercise 40.06 : Bag Out Garments in Stages

Chapter 41
Pockets

Exercise 41.01 : In-Seam Pockets (Closed Seams)
Exercise 41.02 : In-Seam Pockets (Open Seams)
Exercise 41.03 : Patch Pockets (Pointed)
Exercise 41.04 : Patch Pockets (Curved)

Chapter 42
Garment Shaping
Complex Curved Seams

Exercise 42.01 : Curved Seams (Flat Sleeve Assembly)
Exercise 42.02 : Curved Seams with Ease (Set-In Sleeve Assembly)

Chapter 43
Garment Shaping
Pleats, Tucks, Gathers and Elastic

Exercise 43.01 : Gathering onto a Facing
Exercise 43.02 : Gathering as Dart Replacement
Exercise 43.03 : Gathering with a Casing and Drawstring
Exercise 43.04 : Gathering with a Casing and Elastic Method 1
Exercise 43.05 : Gathering with a Casing and Elastic Method 2
Exercise 43.06 : Sewing Elastic Directly Onto Fabric
Notes 43.07 : Preparation for Pleats and Tucks
Exercise 43.08 : Pleat as Dart Replacement
Exercise 43.09 : Pleats in Lining
Exercise 43.10 : Knife Pleats
Exercise 43.11 : Knife Pleats with Dart Value
Exercise 43.12 : Inverted Box Pleats
Exercise 43.13 : Tucks and Pintucks
Exercise 43.14 : Tuck as Dart Replacement

Chapter 44
Garment Shaping
Splits, Vents and Plackets

Exercise 44.01 : Split
Exercise 44.02 : Vent
Exercise 44.03 : Placket

Chapter 45
Fastenings and Closures

Notes 45.00 : Directions of Closures

Chapter 45 : Equipment and Materials List
Fastenings and Closures

Beeswax
Press Studs
Hooks and Eyes
Hook and Bar
Buttons
Covered Button Kit
Guide Template and Conversion Table for Button Sizes
Parts of a Zipper
Zipper Size or Gauge
Zipper Length
Closed-End Zipper
Invisible Zipper
Open-End Zipper
Presser Feet for Buttonholes and Buttons
Buttonhole Options for Sewers with Industrial Machines
Zipper Presser Foot
Invisible Zipper Presser Foot

Notes 45.01 : Hand Sewing Preparation for Fastenings
Exercise 45.02 : Whipstitch
Exercise 45.03 : Buttonhole Stitch
Exercise 45.04 : Press Studs
Exercise 45.05 : Machine Sewn Buttonholes
Exercise 45.06 : Flat Buttons
Exercise 45.07 : Shank Buttons
Exercise 45.08 : Covered Buttons and Press Studs
Exercise 45.09 : Hook and Eye
Exercise 45.10 : Hook and Thread Loop
Exercise 45.11 : Hook and Bar
Notes 45.12 : Shortening Zippers
Notes 45.13 : Sewing Zippers
Exercise 45.14 : Invisible Zipper Method 1
Exercise 45.15 : Invisible Zipper Method 2
Exercise 45.16 : Lining an Invisible Zipper
Exercise 45.17 : Centred Lapped Zipper Method 1
Exercise 45.18 : Centred Lapped Zipper Method 2
Exercise 45.19 : Facing and Lining for a Centred Lapped Zipper
Exercise 45.20 : Lapped Zipper
Exercise 45.21 : Lining a Lapped Zipper
Exercise 45.22 : Exposed Open-End Zipper
Exercise 45.23 : Fly Front Zipper
Notes 45.24 : Adapting the Fly Front Zipper Pattern

Chapter 46
Enclosing Fabric Edges in Bands
Cuffs, Collars and Waistbands

Exercise 46.01 : Basic Band (Seamed to Edge)
Exercise 46.02 : Basic Band (Enclosed)
Exercise 46.03 : Waistband (Ditch Stitched Closed)
Exercise 46.04 : Waistband (Slipstitched Closed)
Exercise 46.05 : Collar and Collar Stand

Chapter 47
Choosing and Starting a Project

For Your First Project, Start with Something Easy
For Your First Garment, Start with Something Unfitted
Choosing Garments to Sew

Chapter 47 : Equipment and Materials List
Project Supplies

Commercial Sewing Patterns
Choosing Patterns for Your Skill Level
Understanding Commercial Patterns
Final Fabrics (Self, Contrast and Lining)
How Much Fabric to Buy
Internal Structure
Threads, Trims and Fastenings
Toile Fabrics and Fastenings
Extra Equipment and Tools

Exercise 47.01 : Body Measurements and Pattern Sizes
Exercise 47.02 : Working with Commercial Sewing Patterns
Exercise 47.03 : Sew a First Toile
Exercise 47.04 : Sew Samples of Sewing Techniques
Exercise 47.05 : Fitting and Finalising the Design

Chapter 48
Cutting and Sewing the Final Garment

Bringing Together Your Preparation Work
Exercise 48.01 : Order of Assembly
Exercise 48.02 : Cutting Fabric for the Final Garment
Exercise 48.03 : Sewing the Final Garment
Exercise 48.04 : Sewing Project Debrief

Chapter 49
Apply Your Knowledge and Expand Your Skills

Challenge Yourself
Experiment with New Techniques, Materials, Trims, and Equipment

Chapter 47
Choosing and Starting a Project

For Your First Project, Start with Something Easy
For Your First Garment, Start with Something Unfitted
Choosing Garments to Sew

Chapter 47 : Equipment and Materials List
Project Supplies

Commercial Sewing Patterns
Choosing Patterns for Your Skill Level
Understanding Commercial Patterns
Final Fabrics (Self, Contrast and Lining)
How Much Fabric to Buy
Internal Structure
Threads, Trims and Fastenings
Toile Fabrics and Fastenings
Extra Equipment and Tools

Exercise 47.01 : Body Measurements and Pattern Sizes
Exercise 47.02 : Working with Commercial Sewing Patterns
Exercise 47.03 : Sew a First Toile
Exercise 47.04 : Sew Samples of Sewing Techniques
Exercise 47.05 : Fitting and Finalising the Design

Chapter 48
Cutting and Sewing the Final Garment

Bringing Together Your Preparation Work
Exercise 48.01 : Order of Assembly
Exercise 48.02 : Cutting Fabric for the Final Garment
Exercise 48.03 : Sewing the Final Garment
Exercise 48.04 : Sewing Project Debrief

Chapter 49
Apply Your Knowledge and Expand Your Skills

Challenge Yourself
Experiment with New Techniques, Materials, Trims, and Equipment

A library of sample patterns are provided in the back of the print book for you to trace and use with all of the exercises. A downloadable PDF of the sample patterns is also available to be used in conjunction with the book.